Latest Condiment Fascination: Chili Crisp-Marinated Albacore
Remember when Mark Bittman, the author of the "Minimalist" column in the New York Times from 1997 to 2011, went through his pimenton phase? He was infusing everything from soups and meats to fish and vegetables—mostly to good effect—with the Spanish smoked paprika, making it a ubiquitous staple in pantries across the country (including mine).
Lately I've been having a similar fling with chili crisp, the latest "it" seasoning in culinary circles, adding spoonfuls to stir fries and drizzling it with abandon on eggs and avocado toast. I've made my own from a Serious Eats recipe by Sohla El-Waylly—out-of-this-world good but tedious to make—and for that reason I've been working my way through several store-bought brands from the crunchy, addictive Laoganma Spicy Chili Crisp, the basis for El-Waylly's version, to others from Fly by Jing and Momofuku.
Originating in China and made with chiles and other aromatics that have been fried in hot vegetable oil, chili crisp formed the base for a recent quick marinade for one of the Oregon albacore loins I'd pulled out of the freezer. Subtle enough that it complemented but didn't overwhelm the flavor of the tuna, then very briefly fried in cast iron, this recipe is going to be a go-to with any firm fish. (It would also be delicious with chicken thighs—just allow it to marinate a little longer.)
Chili Crisp-Marinated Albacore
1 albacore tuna loin (~1 1/2 lbs.), sliced crosswise into 1”-wide sections
1/4 c. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. mirin
1 Tbsp. rice vinegar
1 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger
1 tsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
2-3 Tbsp. chile crisp
2 green onions, sliced, for garnish (optional)
1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)
Whisk together soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, ginger, sugar, sesame oil and chile crisp. Pour into 1 gallon zip-lock bag and marinate for one hour.
Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. With tongs, transfer albacore slices to the hot pan (stand back…it may sputter) and sear for 2 minutes on each side.
Serve over fried rice (recipe here) or with plain jasmine rice and sautéed greens. Garnish with sliced green onions and/or toasted sesame seeds.