There are Chinatowns and then there are Chinatowns. My favorite in this country is San Francisco's, with its narrow streets teeming with people and smells, the shops jammed to the rafters with kitchenware, plastic shoes, brush paintings, anything you could imagine. And unmarked doorways leading up dark stairways to restaurants that only locals know about.
And then there's Portland's miniature version, tucked into a few blocks of Old Town. We even have our own hangout for the locals. Called Good Taste, it's squeezed into a tiny storefront behind a bright pink facade. People in the know have said it makes some of the best Chinese food in town, and judging by the wonton noodle soup I had for lunch the other day, I'd say they're right.
Distinctly different from pho, the broth is much more pungent but still has the soul-warming richness of the Vietnamese-style soup. It comes with a choice of wontons, noodles, duck or pork, or you can choose to have both noodles and wontons with your protein. Wonderfully moist and tender, the wontons are little packets of delight, and with a few drops of chili oil and some of the broth you'll swoon. I can't wait to go back and try more!
Details: Good Taste Restaurant, 18 NW 4th Ave. Phone 503-223-3838.